Incredible, Impressive India Lives Up To All the Hype!

Hello long lost audience!  Now that I've left Rwanda, I'm not sure how many, if any, people are still checking my blog, but for those few faithful readers, here's an update: I'm in India!  After leaving the Eolian Islands, I traveled to south-eastern Sicily near a small town called Noto, about 30 minutes south of the ancient Greek city of Siracusa.  It was mostly a lazy, relaxing week spent at the villa, resting from what proved to be an amazing but exhausting life in Rwanda.  Here are some pictures from the few trips outside the villa in and around Sicily, where my father's grandmother was from, immigrating to Louisiana in 1890.

Siracusa

Valley of the Temples in Agrigento

Valley of the Temples in Agrigento

Visiting Bisacquino, where my ancestors were from, about 20 km from Corleone

The Catholic Church in Bisacquino where my grandmother's 

uncle and aunt were likely baptized

Cathedral in the medieval town of Ragusa

Noto

Noto's annual flower festival, as luck would have it!

After successfully securing my Indian visa, I traveled to India with none other than my friend Sanjeev, who has spent the past several months in India among family and friends.  I couldn't have asked for a better person to introduce me to the sights, tastes and people of Northern India.  We spent a few days in Mumbai where I tried a lot of new foods including pani puri, daal, rus, chole bhature and fresh sugar cane juice, to name a few.  We went to a few of the local malls where I bought lighter Indian-style clothes to combat the intense heat and humidity.  Everywhere we went, we were repeatedly told - this is the worst time to visit India!  Although the heat has been intense, I have had such an amazing time I barely mind the temperature which reached 120 degrees Fahrenheit in some places!  Plus, it is mango season in India and the fresh mangos and mango juice have been sublime with nearly every meal.  I saw many of the famous Mumbai sights - the Taj Hotel, the Gateway of India, Chowpatty Beach, the Queen's Necklace, the Haji Ali and Hanging Gardens.  Such a crowded and dirty yet elegant city, it truly was a great introduction to the country of contrasts.

Reunion in Mumbai with Kartick and Garima, friends we met in Egypt

After a few days in Mumbai, we made our way to Aurangabad, a short flight from Mumbai, where we visited two architectural masterpieces: the Ajanta and Ellora caves.  The Ajanta caves were constructed from around the second century BC until around the sixth century BC and feature intricate paintings on the inside walls of the Buddhist caves, each depicting vedras, or mythological stories of Buddhism enlightenment.  The caves are carved into a rock face in front of a horseshoe-shaped river.  The usual gushing waterfalls over the tops of the caves were bone-dry as it was the last few weeks of the hot, dry summer season before the monsoon rains come in early June.  Even without the waterfalls, the caves were magnificent and elegant and I especially enjoyed watching the monkeys!  The Ellora caves were equally impressive - a compilation of Jain, Hindu and Buddhist caves built from 600 to 1000 AD - with stories told in sculptures and carvings out of solid rock.  The Kailasa Temple is the largest monolithic structure in the world, more than twice the size of the Parthenon in Athens!  Although extremely hot and dry, both caves were worth the trip.

Ajanta Caves

Hundreds of monkeys greeted us at the caves

Most famous painting in Ajanta Caves

Outside Cave 10 at Ajanta

Kailasa Temple at the Ellora Caves

On right, see the huge rock from which Kailasa was chiseled

Carvings on the outside of Kailasa, a Hindu temple,

depict stories from Hindu sacred texts

Shiva, the destroyer of evil, was so strong he defeated an army with one toe, 

according to Hindu mythology

One of the Buddhist caves at Ellora

Sculptures at the Jain temples of Ellora

More Jain sculptures, similar to Buddhist, but with legs folded on top instead of crossed

Next, we flew to New Delhi where we saw many impressive sights including the newly constructed Akshardham Temple, the chaotic winding streets of Chandni Chowk, Rajiv Chowk, the Red Fort, Jama Masjid, Ghandi's memorial, the Lotus Temple, Presidential Palace and tranquil Lodi Garden.  Again, combatting the heat was a challenge, solved by lots of water, breaks in the AC and a big floppy hat.  The capital city is much more spread out and harder to navigate than Mumbai, from my initial impression, and the temperature much more arid than humid Mumbai.  I rode in my first rickshaw, both motor and cycle, as well as ate at the famous kabab-restaurant, Karim's, such a treat.  Interestingly, many locals asked to take my picture or have my picture taken with their children - supposing I was a celebrity, I was told.  I relished my few moments of fame for a few days before traveling west to Rajasthan.

Presidential Palace

Outside the Red Fort in Old Delhi

Lodi Garden at dusk

From Delhi, we drove about 4 hours to the city of Jaipur in the state of Rajasthan.  Jaipur, the pink city, is known for elephants, jewelry and textiles.  I was fortunate to see all three: we rode elephants up the hill to reach famous Amber Fort, an impressive ornate structure a few miles outside of Jaipur, and I bought some bangle bracelets at the world-famous store Amrapali and also some Rajasthani prints at the local bazaar for friends and family.  We also saw the Hava Mahal (Wind Palace), ? Mahal (Water Palace) and City Palace.  At City Palace, we saw artists making beautiful textiles as well as royal dress worn by the maharaja and maharani (king and queen) of years past.  A friend of a friend invited us to his home one night in Jaipur, where we had a lovely dinner followed by a trip to the local movie theater (which he owned) for a Bollywood flick starring Rithick Roshan, one of the most popular actors in India.  All in all a very satisfying few days in "traditional" India.  Next stop, Agra.

Amber Fort

Elephant transport up the steep driveway to the Fort's Gate

Ornately decorated Hall of Private Audiences inside the Amber Fort

Hava Mahal

Water Palace

Shopping at Bazaar in Jaipur

Traditional Rajasthani food

On our drive to Agra, we saw a herd of camels before we stopped at the incredible Fatepur Sikri, very different styled architecture and nearly deserted due to the off-peak season.  Fatepur Sikri was built by a Mugal Emperor for each of his favorite wives, one Hindu, one Christian and one Muslim.  

Herd of camels along the highway!

Beautiful Fatepur Sikri

Fatepur Sikri, now deserted, was built during the Mughal Empire

Once in Agra, we woke up at 5 am to watch the sun rise over the impressive Taj Mahal, a Wonder of the World.  The story of the Taj Mahal is actually a love strory - the monument was built by a heartbroken king for his queen who died in childbirth.  The Taj is worth all the hype.  It is peaceful yet mammoth, an architectural masterpiece yet surrounded by nature.  After a few hours strolling along the grounds, before the heat, we had probably close to a hundred pictures.  Here are a few:

The Taj Mahal at Dawn

Such a peaceful sight, truly a wonder of the world!

The outside decor of the Taj was inlaid into the marble, not painted, using precious stones

View of the Taj Mahal from the Agra Fort.  Sadly I forgot to take a picture with 

my Clemson paw (sent with love by Steph) while at the Taj itself!

That afternoon, we took off for a long 7-hour drive to Khajuraho for a look at more temples.  Seven hours turned into over ten due to the horrible condition of the rural roads connecting Agra and Khajuraho.  That plus the night driving and cars and motorcycles on the wrong side of the road made for a stressful drive.  I am sure our driver, Niresh, won't be volunteering for another drive to Khajuraho anytime soon!  We arrived late but safe and made our way to the Kama Sutra temples of Khajuraho the next day.  We got some really great pictures, despite facing the hottest day of the journey, mostly R-rated.  Here are a few rated G:

Incredibly well preserved temples at Khajuraho

The Hindu temples are famous for their external erotic depictions of Kama Sutra

These elephant sculptures are representative of the art found on all the temples

Khajuraho, our last stop in Northern India.  We did it!

Back in Delhi, Sanjeev left India just in time before an expired visa, and I caught a flight to the southern Indian state of Kerela, just in time for the monsoon.  I arrived at dusk via a small boat that meandered throughout the backwaters to reach my hotel - Coconut Lagoon.  There are birds, butterflies, dragonflies and even a rare species of cow on the property and I have enjoyed myself just drinking in the beauty of God's creation.  After such a jam-packed few weeks, again it is sleep, rest and relaxation for Erin.  I am blessed.

Reception of Coconut Lagoon, where I am now in Kerela

I went on a Butterfly walk...

And spotted some birds...

And ate some fresh seafood - yum!

Today I canoed through the backwaters of Kerela, just gorgeous

Bonjourno di Sicilia!

I have officially left Rwanda and am now getting some much needed R&R on the Island of Lipari off the northern coast of Sicily.  I am so blessed!  After a busy few weeks of work, packing and goodbyes I am safely off the African Continent.  It was an amazing experience and one that I am still unpacking - I know I am not the same person that I came.  But, it was time to go for many reasons and I am thankful to start a new chapter.  Praise God from whom all blessings flow!

The vast majority of my time in April was spent working with the legal team and training the Rwanda Field Office's newest Legal Fellow, Amanda Doyle.  Amanda attended the January training week in D.C. and was originally heading to India, and then Cambodia, but God had other plans!  She arrived on April 1 just in time for our trip to see Gorillas.  Amanda has been such a blessing already to me, the legal team and to the entire office - God totally provided in sending her and I felt a lot of peace and ease in our transition.  We had a legal team dinner at the Car Wash, a local favorite on Friday nights, to welcome Amanda to Rwanda.  The goat shoulder was a bit hit, although we weren't able to finish it, even among 6 people!

One thing I wanted to do while in Rwanda but never made time for was to visit the Mother Teresa Orphanage in Kigali.  I finally managed to go with some friends my last weekend in town.  It was an amazing experience and I was so blessed to love on these children and receive their love in return.

Shannon with Claire on the back and me with Amanda on the back of our matching black Scooty Peps, on our way to town to visit the orphanage

The last thing on my must-do list before leaving Rwanda was to visit the Genocide Memorial in Kigali.  I had been wanting to go for a long time, but was never in the right mood or frame of mind for it.  I was able to go on Thursday, two days before I left, and I am glad I did.  Although I have read a lot about the Genocide and hear people talking of it often, seeing the memorial made the event even more real in my mind.  It was an extremely emotional experience, leaving me feeling physically ill upon leaving.  The human spirit continues to amaze me as it rises above such hate and atrocities to overcome.  To see where Rwanda is 16 years later give me hope and courage as I depart.  God's healing hand is certainly present in this country.

The farewells began a week in advance as I had a farewell party at work, a farewell dinner at Republika with friends and many small farewell lunches and dinners, per the Rwandese custom in parting.  Lots of goodbyes, a perfect memory to end my time in Rwanda.

 Goodbye Audrey!

Goodbye Cady, Shannon and Claire!

Goodbye desk!

Goodbye scooter!

Goodbye odd-looking African crane I always saw at the Novotel!

Benoni and Valens seeing me off at the airport

Claire and Shannon came to the airport to say goodbye also - what a send off!  :)

And now I sit across the Mediterranean, almost a world away, in Italy.  I flew into Rome on Sunday and made my way down the peninsula to Sicily.  I then took a ferry to the largest of the Aeolian Islands, off the northern coast of Sicily, Lipari.  It feels good to have some time alone to eat, sleep, pray and reflect on the last nearly seven months of work in Rwanda.  God has been faithful to me and I am blessed!

In front of Trevi Fountain in Rome

Island of Lipari, where I am now

April Vacation for Genocide Memorial Week

April 12, 2010

Every year, the country of Rwanda substantially slows down for about a week as local Rwandese participate in memorials and other events to commemorate the genocide of nearly 800,000 Tutsi and moderate Hutu people during 100 days in 1994.  Many ex-pats are encouraged to leave town during this time as the country mourns.  This year was no exception and I was again blessed with time off to travel in and around Rwanda as well as venture into Uganda, neighboring Rwanda to the north.

I stayed in Kigali for Easter weekend and was invited to an IJM Staff Member’s home for a wonderful Easter lunch (again to remain nameless per HQ’s request).  After the lunch, a group of five traveled by car to Musanze about 2 hours north of Kigali.  The two hour trip turned into four after I took the wrong road out of Kigali and didn’t notice until 1 hour later.  I was so mad at myself but the car load was gracious with me and we arrived at the Kinigi Guesthouse a few hours after dark.  I swear rural Rwanda looks very much the same outside Kigali!!  Kinigi is a few kilometers north of Musanze and serves as the starting point for trekking the famous Mountain Gorilla originally discovered and studied in Rwanda by Dian Fossey.  We woke up bright and early to a stunning view of the Virunga Volcanoes and were assigned the Susa group (the most difficult to trek but most numerous).  I was so happy we were given the Susa group as there are multiple groups of gorillas and each group can take a maximum of 8 people per trek.  Our group of 5 was increased by a solo traveler, rounding out to an even 6 trekkers, plus our tour guide Francis and the military guards that accompanied us, armed, up the mountain.

Francis explaining the Susa Group to us pre-trek

Me and Amanda, the new IJM Rwanda Legal Fellow

After a strenuous 1 hour hike up the foot of the mountain, we reached the edge of the forest where we had to make our way through the brush for another 45 minutes or so until we reached the gorillas.  The brush itself was full of different flora and fauna including a bamboo forest and patches of greenery that smelled like mint and other fresh herbs.  Francis picked for us a wild celery stalk that we could peel back and eat right there on the trail.  Very tasty!  We reached the gorillas in time for their “social hour” which is just after they wake up from naptime following a morning feeding.  The first one we encountered was just a few feet away, eating celery similar to what we had done on our trek!  It was breathtaking to simply watch and observe the gorillas who were so close and human-like in appearance.  There were two silverbacks (dominant male gorilla) in the Susa group that were enormous!  Others milled about tackling each other, beating their chests (a sign of confidence around humans) and hanging from trees.  It was really a spectacular sight and after an hour with the gorillas, we headed back down the mountain.  We were so lucky to have perfect weather during our trek, a major uncertainty during rainy season.

Silverback

After a fantastic day with the gorillas, our group drove about an hour west to Gisenyi on Lake Kivu.  We met up with two other friends from IJM and stayed at a hidden gem of a hotel, remote and secluded from the city of Gisenyi itself.  After an amazing sunset over the water with the Congolese volcanoes in the background, we had a nice dinner and turned in early after the long day.  The hot shower and soft bed were a welcome treat!  Breakfast the next day was out of a dream, right on a jetty into the lake surrounded by exotic birds and beautiful trees.  The food was also good.  J  We spent the rest of the afternoon on the private beach under straw umbrellas (I have given up laying out in Africa, the sun is way too intense for us white folk) and swimming in the clear waters of Kivu.

Oh how I love Lake Kivu!

A late afternoon shower forced us inside where a spontaneous trip into the DRC (Congo) was planned.  Our group went across the Rwandan border with a guide after substantial questioning from the local authorities and we remained in a private car as we drove through Goma, which was the site of a major volcanic eruption in 2002.  Much of the city remains in an ashy mess as business goes on in spite of it.  It is remarkable how starkly different the two cities of Gisenyi and Goma are, separated by only a few kilometers and a border. We spent only a few hours in Congo and safely crossed back into Rwanda just after dark.

In front of Mount Nyabugogo an active volcano outside Goma 

Another early evening was followed by another beautiful morning on the beach before breakfast and our eventual departure.  We drove back to Kigali in just under three hours on April 7, the official Genocide Memorial Day, where we witnessed public gatherings and memorials every few kilometers from town to town.  Once back in Kigali, we returned the rental car and caught a flight to Kampala, the capital of Uganda.  After a day in dusty Kampala, we headed to Jinja for white water rafting at the source of the Nile River.  The rafting included some class 5 rapids – my first – and a few tumbles into the Nile itself.  It was scary at times but super fun in total.  The day ended with a bar-be-que, beers and cards (Euchre at that!) at our campsite along the Nile.

 Nile River from our campsite

Me with a minor cut from our last rapid, during which our boat flipped

The last day in Uganda was spent in Kampala at a cozy boutique hotel with hot showers and a stunning garden.  It was definitely needed after “roughing it” in Kampala and Jinja, which made Kigali seem like a resort town.  Internet was available and strong and I was able to connect with some family and unwind by the pool.  Trips in Africa are always memorable and adventurous, but not exactly relaxing (so far at least!).

After a short 40-minute flight back to Kigali, I was home and ready to start back to my final three weeks of work.  Today was off to a good start when I learned that this week we are operating at a reduced work-week due to continued Genocide Memorial activities and tomorrow (Tuesday) the office will be closed the full day.  I am thankful for this time to relax and think about my departure as – gasp – I have yet to book a flight out of Rwanda and even to finalize my destination.  As for the Genocide Memorial Week itself, things seem relatively calm here though many businesses are closed, as the Rwandese grieve the loss of many friends and family members.  Largely a private affair, most muzungus observe only from a distance.

Five Months and One to Go…yes, you read that right!

March 28, 2010

My fifth month in Rwanda brought a lot of transition and change, as well as many memorable events as I continue to enjoy life in Kigali and work at IJM including a graduation, concert, moving into a new house, hosting a bridal shower and picking an end date for my fellowship.

In early March, I attended a graduation ceremony in Butare for one of the IJM lawyers, where he received a diploma for his masters in law.  It was neat to visit a college campus here in Rwanda, which shared many similarities from other universities in the US with the same energy and friendly faces.  After Stephen received his diploma, we had a lovely meal of brochettes and chips before heading back to Kigali in the heat.  We made it back just in time for a quick shower before a Sara Groves concert at the upscale Serena Hotel.  Sara Groves is a big IJM supporter and has a heart in particular for the IJM Rwanda Office, which she visited with her husband and team during their week in Rwanda.  After the concert, another IJM colleague came over for a girls’ night and slumber party.  The next morning, I made a yummy breakfast for her and we chatted about our families and respective faith journeys, ending in prayer.  It was a wonderful time of fellowship and I was amazed at how much in common we share in our Christian faith despite such differing backgrounds.  (In case you are wondering why the IJM employees are not named here, I was told by HQ not to list names!)  I have so enjoyed spending time with my Rwandese friends who have been gracious enough to open their lives to me. 

Me with cap and gown, since I can't post pics with the Grad himself!

Me and IJM colleague Melissa Quinn at the Sara Groves concert

A few weekends ago, I took a short trip to Gisenyi, a town on the northern shore of Lake Kivu, with my friend Shannon.  The lake was stunningly beautiful, and Shannon and I were all able to walk over to the border of the Democratic Republic of Congo (formerly Zaire) which is only 2 km away.  While we didn’t cross the border, we did take a few pictures on the wall which separates the DRC from Rwanda. 

Shannon and I on Lake Kivu

At the Congolese Border

I decided to move to a new house in the same neighborhood with a new roommate and friend Claire – a teacher from the UK.  Claire’s other housemates unexpectedly went back to the US opening up space in her house for me to move in mid-March.  I really enjoyed the time I lived with Audrey in her place including an amazing cook and very comfortable furniture, but Claire’s house has a great porch with a great view and no dog to keep me up at night – a huge plus!  J  So I will finish out my time in Kigali living with Claire and another teacher from Germany, Michelle.  So far so good.  I love the porch and Claire has been a fast friend and confident!

Me with my new roommie Claire

Audrey was very understanding about my departure and we have remained good friends.  To that end, I hosted a lingerie shower for her on Friday night to celebrate her upcoming marriage to David.  Audrey got engaged over the Christmas break and plans to get married in December in Laguna Beach, California where David grew up.  Audrey grew up in Uganda herself but her parents are from Washington state so a West Coast wedding made the most sense for them.

Audrey's shower was a big success!

Yesterday I had the privilege of meeting up with Alanna Heath and her team from an organization called 4-more, which works with vulnerable people in Rwanda.  Specifically, 4-more works to place orphans with host families in the US, as well as other services including clean water projects.  Alanna is the older sister of a dear friend from NYC Amilee Watkins, who I met through the Gotham Fellowship at Redeemer.  We were even able to skype briefly with Amilee when we met for coffee at a local joint called Shokola.  It was Alanna's first visit to Rwanda and I was blessed to overlap with her trip!

Me with Alanna and her team from 4-more

Finally, as many of you already know, I have decided to end my fellowship with IJM a few months early.  I was originally supposed to leave in early July and will now leave in early May instead.   I have really enjoyed the work I have done while serving with IJM, but my supervisor is leaving at the end of this month and the other legal fellow Matthew left unexpectedly at the end of February to take a job in DC, which significantly changes my role in the office working with the legal team.  I will train up the new legal fellow arriving next week during the month of April so that she will be up to speed when I leave in May.  IJM was extremely supportive of my decision, and I feel a lot of peace about leaving after giving a lot of energy and effort over the last several months.  Although I am not exactly sure what the rest of my sabbatical months will look like in detail, I am excited about the next stage of my year away from the firm to travel, spend time with family and friends and settle back into NYC!

Me, Matthew and James just before Matthew headed to the airport

Four Months in Kigali...Time to Focus on Work

February 20, 2010

Last Monday marked four months since I left New York, and I realized I haven’t shared much about my work so far at IJM.  Part of that is because I have to get approval from HQ regarding what aspects of IJM’s work I share before posting (and I’ve been lazy) but most of it is that it took a few months before I had adjusted enough to life in Kigali to be able to give my full attention to work.

My position as a Legal Fellow in IJM’s Rwanda Office means I am part of the legal team consisting of mostly national Rwandese lawyers who represent clients in land rights and child sexual violence cases.  I have gotten familiarized with the casework, meeting with the individual attorneys to discuss case strategy and resolve legal issues.  I have accompanied a few of the lawyers to the field and to court appearances and Abunzi hearings (Abunzi is a mediation panel consisting of community volunteers where disputes are heard before seeking resolution by a court).  Rwanda is a civil law jurisdiction, meaning that there is no requirement for a judge to follow any precedent set forth by another judge or higher instance court.  Rather, Rwandese lawyers look to various codified laws to ascertain what a judge will hopefully follow.  Most of the civil codes are written in French and then translated into Kinyarwanda, although recently codified laws have been drafted in English, such as the Law on the Protection and Rights of Children of 2004 and the Gender Based Violence Law of 2008.

In addition to informal training and strategizing with the Rwandese lawyers, I have been heavily involved in project planning for the future of the IJM Rwanda Office.  The Office has only been doing casework since 2008 and its current project will conclude at the end of 2010.  The current project focuses primarily on land rights cases such as property grabbing and resolving succession issues for vulnerable widows and children.  The Rwanda Office additionally has a small Child Sexual Violence Pilot Project, which also ends in 2010, and is exploring the possibility of expanding this project to take on more targeted cases in higher volume.  To that end, I have met with various NGOs in Kigali and other parts of Rwanda with access to vulnerable children to ascertain what types of cases or vulnerable children that have limited access to justice.  These meetings have been fruitful and I have been able to provide a lot of guidance and support for the new Project Proposal.

I have also really been blessed by the friendships developing among the IJM national staff.  I have been invited to a few colleagues’ homes where I have gotten to know each of them on a more personal level.  Rwandan culture is a very private one where deep friendship takes a while to form and is based on trust and observation over time.  Now that I am in month four, I am slowly opening up to my colleagues and them in return.  The Rwandese are such lovely people and previous perceptions and worldviews have been challenged in several respects – namely dating and marriage, faith in action, time and wealth.  Thanks to modern technology such as email and Facebook, I hope to be able to continue communication with many of my new friends even after I return to the States.

Work has been the most rewarding part of my experience so far, except for the relationships I have formed with my colleagues, and I have already been able to check off a few boxes and answer a few questions about my career moving forward.  These were big reasons also for coming to Rwanda and working for IJM, as I have previously only worked at a private law firm doing patent litigation.  I am very thankful to have had this opportunity to use my law degree in a different way, particularly doing not for profit legal work, overseas and for a faith-based organization.  As wonderful as this experience has been for me in this regard, I can definitely see I am much more suited for work in the US!  J