April 12, 2010
Every year, the country of Rwanda substantially slows down for about a week as local Rwandese participate in memorials and other events to commemorate the genocide of nearly 800,000 Tutsi and moderate Hutu people during 100 days in 1994. Many ex-pats are encouraged to leave town during this time as the country mourns. This year was no exception and I was again blessed with time off to travel in and around Rwanda as well as venture into Uganda, neighboring Rwanda to the north.
I stayed in Kigali for Easter weekend and was invited to an IJM Staff Member’s home for a wonderful Easter lunch (again to remain nameless per HQ’s request). After the lunch, a group of five traveled by car to Musanze about 2 hours north of Kigali. The two hour trip turned into four after I took the wrong road out of Kigali and didn’t notice until 1 hour later. I was so mad at myself but the car load was gracious with me and we arrived at the Kinigi Guesthouse a few hours after dark. I swear rural Rwanda looks very much the same outside Kigali!! Kinigi is a few kilometers north of Musanze and serves as the starting point for trekking the famous Mountain Gorilla originally discovered and studied in Rwanda by Dian Fossey. We woke up bright and early to a stunning view of the Virunga Volcanoes and were assigned the Susa group (the most difficult to trek but most numerous). I was so happy we were given the Susa group as there are multiple groups of gorillas and each group can take a maximum of 8 people per trek. Our group of 5 was increased by a solo traveler, rounding out to an even 6 trekkers, plus our tour guide Francis and the military guards that accompanied us, armed, up the mountain.
Francis explaining the Susa Group to us pre-trek
Me and Amanda, the new IJM Rwanda Legal Fellow
After a strenuous 1 hour hike up the foot of the mountain, we reached the edge of the forest where we had to make our way through the brush for another 45 minutes or so until we reached the gorillas. The brush itself was full of different flora and fauna including a bamboo forest and patches of greenery that smelled like mint and other fresh herbs. Francis picked for us a wild celery stalk that we could peel back and eat right there on the trail. Very tasty! We reached the gorillas in time for their “social hour” which is just after they wake up from naptime following a morning feeding. The first one we encountered was just a few feet away, eating celery similar to what we had done on our trek! It was breathtaking to simply watch and observe the gorillas who were so close and human-like in appearance. There were two silverbacks (dominant male gorilla) in the Susa group that were enormous! Others milled about tackling each other, beating their chests (a sign of confidence around humans) and hanging from trees. It was really a spectacular sight and after an hour with the gorillas, we headed back down the mountain. We were so lucky to have perfect weather during our trek, a major uncertainty during rainy season.
Silverback
After a fantastic day with the gorillas, our group drove about an hour west to Gisenyi on Lake Kivu. We met up with two other friends from IJM and stayed at a hidden gem of a hotel, remote and secluded from the city of Gisenyi itself. After an amazing sunset over the water with the Congolese volcanoes in the background, we had a nice dinner and turned in early after the long day. The hot shower and soft bed were a welcome treat! Breakfast the next day was out of a dream, right on a jetty into the lake surrounded by exotic birds and beautiful trees. The food was also good. J We spent the rest of the afternoon on the private beach under straw umbrellas (I have given up laying out in Africa, the sun is way too intense for us white folk) and swimming in the clear waters of Kivu.
Oh how I love Lake Kivu!
A late afternoon shower forced us inside where a spontaneous trip into the DRC (Congo) was planned. Our group went across the Rwandan border with a guide after substantial questioning from the local authorities and we remained in a private car as we drove through Goma, which was the site of a major volcanic eruption in 2002. Much of the city remains in an ashy mess as business goes on in spite of it. It is remarkable how starkly different the two cities of Gisenyi and Goma are, separated by only a few kilometers and a border. We spent only a few hours in Congo and safely crossed back into Rwanda just after dark.
In front of Mount Nyabugogo an active volcano outside Goma
Another early evening was followed by another beautiful morning on the beach before breakfast and our eventual departure. We drove back to Kigali in just under three hours on April 7, the official Genocide Memorial Day, where we witnessed public gatherings and memorials every few kilometers from town to town. Once back in Kigali, we returned the rental car and caught a flight to Kampala, the capital of Uganda. After a day in dusty Kampala, we headed to Jinja for white water rafting at the source of the Nile River. The rafting included some class 5 rapids – my first – and a few tumbles into the Nile itself. It was scary at times but super fun in total. The day ended with a bar-be-que, beers and cards (Euchre at that!) at our campsite along the Nile.
Me with a minor cut from our last rapid, during which our boat flipped
The last day in Uganda was spent in Kampala at a cozy boutique hotel with hot showers and a stunning garden. It was definitely needed after “roughing it” in Kampala and Jinja, which made Kigali seem like a resort town. Internet was available and strong and I was able to connect with some family and unwind by the pool. Trips in Africa are always memorable and adventurous, but not exactly relaxing (so far at least!).
After a short 40-minute flight back to Kigali, I was home and ready to start back to my final three weeks of work. Today was off to a good start when I learned that this week we are operating at a reduced work-week due to continued Genocide Memorial activities and tomorrow (Tuesday) the office will be closed the full day. I am thankful for this time to relax and think about my departure as – gasp – I have yet to book a flight out of Rwanda and even to finalize my destination. As for the Genocide Memorial Week itself, things seem relatively calm here though many businesses are closed, as the Rwandese grieve the loss of many friends and family members. Largely a private affair, most muzungus observe only from a distance.
